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Trip report: Is Indonesia still ‘at a crossroads’?
Twenty years ago, the idea that Indonesia was ‘at a crossroads’ was so well worn that the writers of The Simpsons used it as shorthand for a typical Economist think piece. (The magazine showed it was in on the joke by repeating it over the next two decades).1
When we were planning our visit to Indonesia, we hoped it would provide us with a less clichéd perspective on Asia’s third-most-populous country1. In the event, it left us with a heightened awareness of the challenges the country faces but also increased our appreciation for a small group of its high-quality entrepreneurial businesses. In political and development terms, the Economist’s cliché has some basis in reality: Indonesia really is at a crossroads. Equally, we believe the way long-term investors should proceed is clear.
Disadvantages: a shrinking middle class and an underperforming education system
Indonesia has had a tough few years. Because groceries account for 50% of spending (compared to 11% in the US)3, the rise in prices seen in 2022-23 squeezed household finances. The country’s middle-class population shrank and there was an abrupt shift in household spending toward basic necessities. Sadly, another result was an increase in online gambling fuelled by desperation. In 2023, Indonesian households lost approximately USD30 billion to online gambling4, equivalent to around 6% of the total deposits in the country’s banking system5.
While President Trump’s unpredictable approach to setting trade tariffs means the outlook for the entire global economy is uncertain, that is particularly true for Indonesia. At this time, it is unclear whether tariffs will help it (by encouraging manufacturers to relocate there from China) or hinder it (by slowing the global economy and reducing demand for exports of the country’s abundant raw materials).
Politically, it is not yet clear what path the country will take under the leadership of President Prabowo Subianto, son-in-law of Suharto, the dictator who led the country from the late 1960s to the late 1990s. It remains to be seen whether Prabowo, a former general, will seek to return it to its authoritarian past or follow the outwardly more democratic approach of his predecessor, Joko Widodo – ‘Jokowi’ – the first leader from outside Indonesia’s political and military elite.
"A third of Indonesian children drop out of formal education before completing primary schoo.l"
Economically, one of the major obstacles to Prabowo’s bid to transform Indonesia through inward investment is the failure of its education system to produce skilled workers. Perhaps of greatest relevance is the size of the education gap between Indonesia and regional rivals such as Vietnam. While standardised tests are flawed, they paint a stark picture. For example, 15-year-olds in Vietnam outperform similarly aged Norwegians in mathematics while Indonesian students of the same age rank somewhere between Albania and Palestine6. Sadly, many Indonesian children don’t have an opportunity to take these tests at all; a third drop out of formal education before completing primary school7.
Advantages: demographics, essential metals and neutrality
If the shrinking of Indonesia’s middle class and the inadequacies of its education system are obstacles to its development, it also possesses a number of formidable strengths:
- A large population of 283 million and counting8.
- Abundant reserves of metals that are critical to the electrification of the economy, such as copper and nickel.
- A relatively neutral geopolitical stance.
All of this could, along with low wages, help to make it a destination for manufacturers seeking to diversify away from China. Attracting this investment will be key to determining whether it can move beyond being a lower-middle-income economy whose prosperity depends on the export of raw materials.
"Indonesia’s exports of nickel – a key material for batteries – surged from USD2 billion in 2020 to USD33 billion in 2024"9
In 2020, Indonesia took steps to enhance its manufacturing capabilities by banning exports of raw nickel. This move was designed to force mineral ore smelters to build local processing plants. Despite protests from the World Trade Organization (WTO), the International Monetary Fund (IMF), and the European Union, Indonesia’s exports of nickel – a key material for batteries – rose from USD2 billion in 2020 to USD33 billion in 20249.
Under President Prabowo, meanwhile, the country is becoming more assertive in its dealings with multinational companies. Chinese car manufacturers are being encouraged to locate their production facilities in Indonesia in exchange for market access. And, after a dispute which saw a temporary ban being placed on sales of the iPhone 16, Prabowo extracted a promise from Apple to invest in assembling some of its products locally. It will begin making Air Tags and components for its headphones in the country.
Finding entrepreneurial companies matters more than the big picture
Reflecting on our time in Indonesia, we remain hopeful that the country can overcome the challenges it faces. But that is far from a certainty. From an investment perspective, however, how Indonesia’s economy performs relative to its Asian neighbours isn’t the most important thing. Indonesia doesn’t necessarily need to become rich for some of its companies to perform well. Parts of the economy are still dominated by the same family business groups (conglomerates) that have been profiting from their close links to the state since Suharto’s regime. Equally, however, there are honourable exceptions: quality companies with entrepreneurial leaders. We met a number of them during our visit.
Sido Muncul (herbal supplements)
A strong brand, operational efficiency, and a careful approach to pricing have seen Sido Muncul becoming Indonesia’s largest supplier of herbal supplements10.

Because its products are cheaper and higher quality than supplements sold by street vendors, it could, in theory, charge more for them. But because it believes its margins are already high enough and it wants to maintain affordability, it only increases its prices in line with inflation. Under the stewardship of the founding Hidayat family, Sido Muncul has built its business by prioritising customer relationships over short-term profits. That it stores several months of inventory ‘just in case’ might dismay adherents of just-in-time supply chains. Equally, however, that cautious approach allowed it to meet a boom in demand during the covid pandemic despite the disruptions to supply chains occurring elsewhere. Set against that, we are conscious that its products could be viewed as discretionary purchases for Indonesian consumers, so sales could potentially be squeezed should inflation surge again.
Bank Central Asia (banking)
Bank Central Asia (BCA) is Indonesia’s leading private bank. Since its privatisation in 2000, it has been majority-owned by the Hartono brothers, who maintain a low profile despite their wealth. They have instilled a risk-aware culture that has underpinned the bank’s careful but profitable growth.

Its cautious approach to lending has resulted in very low levels (less than 2%) of non-performing loans14. Its reputation for stability and financial strength makes it relatively easy for BCA to attract deposits, giving it a low-cost funding source for its lending activities. It believes relationships are an essential part of business banking, so is expanding its branch network to tap into the next phase of Indonesia’s long-term growth, which seems likely to be led by development outside Java, its most populated and wealthiest island. The main note of caution is its valuation. On a price-to-book basis, which compares a bank’s market value to its underlying book value (its assets minus its liabilities), BCA’s shares trade on a significant premium to those of its local competitors.
Aspirasi Hidup (household and lifestyle retail)
The Wibowos are entrepreneurs. Kuncuro Wibowo grew his father’s business from a single hardware store in North Jakarta into a national chain of more than 240 Azko home improvement and furnishing stores serving Indonesia’s growing middle class13.

Whether it can maintain its current levels of profitability as shopping migrates online remains to be seen. The company’s view is that its physical stores will continue to attract shoppers seeking homewares and that its reputation for quality helps it to stand out from Shopee, Indonesia’s dominant online-shopping platform. We worry that greater transparency on pricing in online retail could make it harder to maintain its current levels of profitability, particularly as e-commerce threatens to weaken its customer relationships.
Alfamart (mini marts)
Djoko Susanto began managing his parents’ market stall aged 17. The Susanto family now controls one of Indonesia’s largest chains of mini marts.

And, although members of the family occupy prominent roles across the business, its day-to-day management has been entrusted to a professional chief executive. In our experience, this is often a good sign. Recently, it has seen its profitability coming under pressure as it opens more stores, particularly outside Java. Over the longer term, however, we believe Alfamart should be a beneficiary of the growing spending power of Indonesian consumers.
Avia Avian (paints)
As Indonesia grows wealthier and its young population forms new households, the demand for paint is growing at a predictable rate11.

Under the guidance of the Tanoko brothers, Avia Avian has become the country’s largest supplier of this widely used and profitable product12. It is anticipating regulatory change by reformulating its paints to eliminate harmful chemicals found in products by its smaller competitors.
Meeting companies such as these, who have been able to grow and refine their franchises, and to generate returns for their shareholders irrespective of the wider flux in Indonesia’s economy and politics, excites us. Today, the attractive valuations of some of Indonesia’s best companies are giving us the opportunity to invest in them for the long term on behalf of Stewart Investors’ clients. Irrespective of whether Indonesia remains at the crossroads, we look forward to returning to check on their progress.
Tyler Thomas
August 2025
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